Jews are known around the world for their deep connection to food, and Jewish culinary culture has had a major impact far beyond the community itself. From matzah evolving into Communion wafers to bagels becoming a breakfast staple across the globe, Jewish food traditions have shaped tastes, rituals, and restaurant menus far and wide.
At the forefront of this delicious cultural wave is Naomi Levy, who runs the food and beverage programs at Lehrhaus, a nonprofit eatery and house of Jewish learning that opened its first location just outside Harvard Square in Somerville, Massachusetts.
“It wasn’t something I had sought out,” Levy told Unpacked of her journey into Jewish food and culture. “But when it happened, it just made a lot of sense. I’ve always loved the storytelling aspect of what we do in the hospitality industry, and now I get to tell stories that are so much more personally connected to my upbringing. I get to share more of myself in this great way.”
Lehrhaus: Reviving the Jewish house of learning for the modern age
Lehrhaus was inspired by Franz Rosenzweig’s Freies Jüdisches Lehrhaus (“Free Jewish House of Learning”) which was a thriving Jewish center for learning in Frankfurt until the Nazis forced its closure in 1938. In Eastern Europe, Jewish houses of learning — ranging from traditional yeshivas to modern institutions closer to intellectual salons — were vibrant centers of intellectual, spiritual, and communal life. These institutions fostered rigorous study of Torah and Talmud, while some, like Rosenzweig’s Lehrhaus, embraced modern philosophy, art, and science alongside Jewish texts, creating a dynamic fusion of tradition and contemporary thought. However, the Holocaust devastated these communities. Thousands of scholars and students were murdered, and countless institutions were destroyed.
While a few yeshivas managed to relocate, most notably to the United States and Israel, many of these once-thriving hubs of Jewish learning were lost. Today, efforts like Lehrhaus aim to rekindle that spirit of pluralistic, immersive Jewish education for a new generation.
Blending food, drink, and intellectual exploration, Lehrhaus hosts a rotating lineup of local and international scholars, authors, and educators, welcoming Jews of all denominations and anyone who simply loves to learn while enjoying a great meal.
“Lehrhaus is the brainchild of Rabbi Charlie Schwartz and Joshua Foer,” Levy explained, adding that the duo wanted to offer a “new type” of space for the Greater Boston Jewish community. She helped conceptualize the tavern side of the venture, and within a year, they had secured a location and were preparing to open.
Blending Judaism and a mouth-watering menu
With years of experience behind the bar — including stints at beloved Boston establishments like Hungry Mother and Eastern Standard (which was named Best American Restaurant Bar under her leadership) — Levy was a natural fit for the role.
“I think I’m one of those rare people who is both very creative but also highly organized,” Levy observes as humbly as she can, citing such creative concoctions as the Day of Rest (made with challah-based Bourbon, roasting herbs, and kosher red wine), the Israeli-inspired Spritz Petel (with Arancia, lime and raspberry), and the spirit-free Tree of Knowledge (which features fig, pomegranate, pineapple, and lemon flavors).
“I love to come up with not only creative flavors for cocktails but also creative ideas for service and how we can continuously strive to be better,” she said.
As much as she loves her bar program, Levy is also enamored with her food selections.
“I love the smoked fish pâté,” she said enthusiastically. “It’s like taking the best parts of a deli breakfast and turning it into a chip-and-dip situation — perfect for dinner.”
Bringing Hanukkah behind the bar
Her creativity extends far beyond the Lehrhaus menu. In 2018, inspired by the booming “holiday pop-up bar” trend, Levy put herself on the Jewish cultural map when she launched the Maccabee Bar to give fellow Hanukkah celebrants a place to gather, light the menorah, schmooze, and sip — minus the mistletoe. The pop-up has drawn crowds in Boston and New York City since.
“I think no matter how old you get, when you grow up Jewish in America, there’s always this little kid part of you that remembers feeling left out when your friends got to go and meet Santa,” Levy said. “So I thought to myself, I wonder what would happen if we did a holiday pop-up bar that was 100% dedicated to Hanukkah. And it turns out, I was far from the only one wishing there was something I could connect to that time of year!”
With the Maccabee Bar continuing to expand, Levy is also working on bringing Lehrhaus to more cities.
“We’re currently working on a second location in Washington, D.C.,” she said proudly, “and we hope to keep growing in the next few years.”
Wherever she goes, one thing remains constant: Levy’s desire to bring joy through hospitality.
“I really love making people happy, and that is at the core of what we do in the hospitality industry,” she said. “That is what keeps me going strong all these years later.”
